Monday 27 June 2016

Heads In The Clouds

Losses Hurt


It is with profound sadness that the Togo North Team must announce the death of one of our teammates. Cheryl Cleveland passed away at her house on the Hospital of Hope grounds here in Mango, Togo on Saturday morning. Cheryl was a pharmacist who had just finished her planned 18 month term with the Hospital of Hope.

Cheryl was a key member of the Hospital of Hope family and worked hard as a pharmacist to make sure the opening and first year and a half of the hospital’s operation went smoothly. Please pray for Cheryl’s family as they were expecting to welcome her home this week. Cheryl will be greatly missed by her friends and teammates here in Togo as well as by her many friends and family in the States.

It is our hope that even in her death, Cheryl’s strong faith and service for her Creator will point others to a relationship with Jesus Christ.


This is the second loss the team up in Mango has suffered in the past few months. Pray that they will remain strong and committed to the work to be done.

Another worker has finished her tasks here on earth.





Village Church


I had been asked by Jason to drive a visiting pastor, Gary Miller, to a little church up the mountain so he could preach there on Sunday morning. Pastor Gary from Alabama, a nursing student named Hannah, a nurse named Jeannette and Togolese Pastor Anani rode with me. Pastor Anani would act as the translator from 'Alabama English' to Ewe'. We drove for just over an hour across broken asphalt and dirt roads, avoiding most, no... a few of the potholes and all of the goats and chickens running across the road. We made it into the village of Elavanyo, to a little building not much bigger than a standard living room – maybe 20' x 12' or so in size.

The church is the building on the right

It was very barren. Eight rough, handmade wooden benches for the people to sit on. A little podium stood at the front of the room. Two doorways, and a single window broke up the dirty beige-brown walls. Open wood rafters held up a corrugated tin roof. No lights, no electricity of any sort. Eighteen of us sat on the benches to have church together.


It was a very overcast morning. It got darker as the clouds built up and rain started to look apparent. It got so dark in the unlit room that I passed my little flashlight to Pastor Gary so he could read his notes and his Bible. When the rain started, it came so hard and heavy and loud on the little tin roof that they had to stop speaking because no one could hear anything, and we had to close the doors to keep the rain from blowing in. So we sat, in a barely lit room, waiting for the rain to ease up.

Pastor Gary and Pastor Anani standing by the window for
some light to read by

The rain did stop, and the preacher continued on. It was a really great experience to be with these Togolese for their church service. They weren't rich. They were just gathering humbly together on a Sunday morning to learn more about God.

Pastor Gary Miller did a great job – especially considering he was using a translator, the interruption of the rain and needing a flashlight. He answered all of the questions they had and they appreciated him coming to talk to them. When we left they sent us off with gifts – a bunch of bananas and a bag of fresh-picked avocados.











Waterfall Ministry


I have had the fun job of driving visiting medical volunteers on a day trip to the area around Kpalime, which is about 35 minutes from the hospital compound. This is their chance to get out and see a bit of south Togo away from the hospital. I've formed a relationship with Expedit, our local guide and artist. He guides us around his local village up in the mountains showing us the various plants, fruits, crops and farming. He includes the two lovely waterfalls on the hike. He also shows how he makes the natural pigments from local plants that he uses in his paintings, which (of course) he offers for sale to those on the hike when we return to his house. He's not too fluent speaking English, I'm not too great at speaking French, but we manage to make it work and now that I know what he's showing us (after three trips with him now) I can assist in explaining what he's talking about to non-French speaking hospital volunteers.



After we finish the waterfall hike, typically the group leaves Expedit's village and heads back into Kpalime for lunch and a stop at the Artisan Centre for a chance to be tourists. After spending some time looking at Togolese crafts, we load up and I take them to the busy market in the heart of the city. There, folks are usually looking for the vibrant fabrics to buy so they can get some clothing made to take back home. Shirts, skirts, wild looking hospital scrubs, aprons... There are a couple of fabric ladies who smile when they see me coming now, knowing that there are usually a few other yovo's (white people) with me, looking to buy fabric.



I like the opportunity we have to support the local seamstresses around the hospital (they're typically members of the local churches, too) with requests for shirts and skirts to be made. Our family already has a few items made by them! For between $10 and $15 you can buy the fabric and have it tailored just for you.







Training Camp


Nurse Jonathan (he's actually a nurse practitioner) and Christine have been training several Togolese nurses on how to properly use the Baxter infusion pump. They had to develop a brief training manual (and then get it translated into French) for the machine and now have to teach it to the nurses.




Christine has also had some intubation rolls sewn by one of the local ladies, an idea she stole from St. Joseph's Hospital. These rolls are designed to be easy-to-grab rolls that fit the size of the child or adult needing to have their airway secured. These will be stocked in the OR, pediatric and adult ICU wards and the re-animation (emergency / post op) ward area. This will make it easier to quickly grab the the equipment needed, as well as stocking and then restocking after use. These are labeled in the age-specific sizes that the patients would require. This will increase the speed and efficiency of care in time sensitive situations. With a high number of visiting medical staff, streamlining the system is beneficial to all.




Additional to all of that, Jonathan and I have done many hikes up the mountain road very early in the morning, before either of us have to go to work. I've nicknamed him 'Jonny Five Bells' since that is normally the time we meet to start the 4km hike uphill. There was a running race up the mountain road a while back, and they conveniently painted the kilometer marks on the road.

The view downhill from our turn-around point.

The 5km mark is right at the gate of the hospital, the foot of the mountain. From there it counts down to the village of N'Digbe at the top of the mountain, kilometer 0. Since it's flat for the last kilometer (and there is a Gendarme / guard station just outsite N'Digbe) we stop at the 4km mark and turn around, making an 8km round trip. Jonny Five Bells wants to lose 20lbs on the mountain before he heads home. He's been here for about 6 weeks now. I'm not sure how he's doing in his quest, but we enjoy getting out and hitting the road together. We've had a couple of close calls with crazy motos zooming past too close for comfort, grossly overloaded cars and huge trucks squeezing us to the very edge of the narrow road, but those experiences make for good memories of early morning training.

Christine had a very positive case just the other day. A tracheostomy patient with a HUGE grapefruit-sized thyroid tumour had her week old trach tube downsized and was able to speak to her daughter. That means there was minimal vocal chord damage and good healing was taking place.



Doctor Greg did the surgery and wanted to get a picture with the mom and daughter after she was able to speak.

I wish the Togolese would smile for pictures.  They were so happy
to hear mama's voice seconds earlier.




Mount Agou


The Wards wanted to get off the compound last Saturday, so we made plans to join them on a trip to Mount Agou – the highest point in Togo, at 986m. The big highlight is the fact that it's the highest point in Togo. Other than that, not too much really. It is only about 15 minutes beyond Kpalime so it's an easy destination from the hospital, less than an hour away. We were going to try driving to the top and maybe scouting around for a trail to hike from the base to the summit for a future foot-powered trip.

The road started out pretty good...

then deteriorated...



The suggestion was to buy a permit to get access to the mountain, get a guide to take you to the top, show you around and bring you back down. That's what we did. Our guide asked to drive the Land Cruiser. That would be like me asking for the keys to a Ferrari back home. Not a wise thing for the owner to do. Bryant flat out said “No.” The guide then hopped on his moto and escorted us to the top, waving his arm and pointing at every curve, pothole or washout. The bigger the obstacle, the more rapidly and wildly he would wave his arm. Now, we were driving very slowly up the washed out, rutted, potholed, broken and unmaintained 'road'. You couldn't drive fast. We could see everything in front of us. It's not like a pothole would sneak up on us at a brisk 5km/h! And there wasn't any other possible route up the mountain. One road up, same road down.  So much for needing a guide.

and got overgrown...

The last view of the valley before heading into the clouds.

We made our way into the clouds, and lost sight of the land below us. Getting near the summit we found a cable across the road and a small military compound guarding the peak. We joked about the summit being the first point of attack if Canada were to declare war on Togo. Actually, there are a couple of cell towers up there that these soldiers are protecting. We had to give a copy of our permit to the guard, and he lowered the cable and let us past. We rounded a curve and found... the end of the road. A spot big enough to turn around in. We think it was the summit, but the clouds were thick enough that we couldn't see another peak anywhere. We weren't sure what was next. So we made lunch and ate it. Standing on top of the highest point in Togo, unable to see anything, was a bit anticlimactic. A lovely vista of the landscape below would have been great, but maybe another time.


Almost there...
  
The panoramic view to the south... somewhere through the clouds

The turn-around / lunch location


Our guide wasn't very knowledgeable regarding a hiking trail, but told us we could stop on the way down and wander through some of the little villages. Well, it's good to know that the villages aren't off limits! And as we loaded up and prepared to leave, our guide called Bryant over to talk to him for a moment. It seems that the 'guard' wanted us to pay him for lowering the cable across the road, as a token of our appreciation for his fine work protecting the cell towers and us from enemy attack. Our guide thought that was an appropriate gesture. When we drove up to the guard we only offered a can of lemonade and a package of crackers. He didn't look too impressed, but following mission agency policy, we aren't able to pay bribes (and wouldn't have, regardless of policy or not).

 Sharing a drink and crackers must be permissible, no??

A bad photo, but if you look closely you can see a guy carrying
a mattress down the mountain slope.  I bet Sleep Country doesn't
deliver like this!

When we finally got off the mountain to where our stellar guide released us of his duties. He asked for a can of lemonade for a token of appreciation for his difficult task, too. Bryant ended our time with him the same way he began it, with a “no”. And we drove away.
Our group was left feeling like we had been played for being yovo again.

Let's see:
- Pay around $7 for a permit to essentially turn around.
- Pay $3 for a guide to point out large potholes we could clearly see ourselves.
- Give a gift of crackers and a drink to a clearly overworked guard who lowered a cable across the road.
- Asked for another drink by our guide who barely earned the money we paid for his services to begin with.

Sounds like another day in Togo! We could have done the entire trip on our own, stopped just before the guard station and turned around without needing the above-mentioned turn around area. And we never found a trail to hike to the top. Further (independent) investigation is required. On a cloudless, sunny day we will conquer Mount Agou - for Canada!  You'll hear about us on the news.





Care Package From Home!


We received a not-so-anonymous parcel from home.  I knew it was coming but kept the boys unaware.  At 4:30 on Friday afternoon I received a call from the hospital admin office telling me there was a note for me.  I ran over to find that it was a pickup notice for the post office.  I asked if they knew what time the post office (which is located in Adeta) closed for the weekend.  "Five o'clock."  I had 25 minutes to run back home, grab a vehicle and drive to Adeta to pick up the parcel.  No problem...

In my rush to get to the post office I neglected to bring any form of identification.  The guard let Logan and I into the little post office building after first taking our delivery notice and going inside.  A sour looking lady was slowly filling out a ledger.  She then called me up to the counter.  She asked for my passport.  I told her my name, and that I was from Canada, but that I left my ID at the hospital back in Tsiko.  She eyed me up and down, the turned and looked at the package, then lifted it onto the counter in front of me and had me sign the ledger.  No ID??  No problem in Togo!  Out the door we went with our parcel!!  Either I must have looked extremely honest or she didn't care at that point in her work week.

Guest were coming to dinner so I left the parcel for the next morning.  When we told the boys it was Christmas they instantly got excited.  Opening it up we found treasures beyond compare!

Just a bit excited!



Chips, Jolly Rancher candies, baking chocolate and CANADIAN FLAVOURED!!  juice crystals, several pairs of new underwear for the boys, a few nice t-shirts, a pair of drumsticks, a soccer ball and other goodies!


So excited about new underwear, Hudson put them on over his shorts!

'I RACE FOR... chocolate'.  I will also fight
you for chocolate!

What a blessing!  Such a great reminder to us of the good friends we have supporting us back home.  Thank you so much, anonymous parcel shippers!  And thanks to those who send notes and continue to pray for us while we're here.  Keep it up.






The Left-Overs

Again, more pictures that didn't warrant much writing, but are a glimpse at life here in Tsiko, Togo.

Fish and chips, Togo style

Keenan, wondering if his meal is going to bite.
Not too quiet in the house some days.
Experimenting with tropical fruits
- some we've never seen before!

Always nice to have so many different
medical specialties on hand.  Fletcher
is giving Logan a check-up after his back
injury last summer

Another medical professional coming home after a day at the hospital

That mischievous grin... and awesome outfit! 


As with most places in the world, the love of soccer is here.

Homemade ladder looks pretty safe...

... as does the homemade electricity pole.  
Avocados going to the market.

No, nothing unusual here.  Just a guy sitting on the roof taking a video
while driving down the highway.

Loading up the taxi for a trip to the city

Friday 17 June 2016

Ills And Wells




Hospital Staff Illnesses

We have had a number of hospital staff go down with some kind of virus. It starts with a cough and progresses to a fever, then seems to be done with. There have been so many staff get sick that the administrators are concerned about not being able to maintain the same level of coverage in the hospital!

Even the guys that work in maintenance and landscaping have not been immune from the sickness. We have had a few guys try to tough it out including John, the maintenance department's commander-in-chief. He was down for a couple of days. That is extremely unusual for a hard working guy like him. It was bad enough that the girls who were supposed to go on the grocery shopping trip in Lome postponed it for a few days.

If you wouldn't mind saying a prayer for us and the staff, their health, incoming patients' health and hospital coverage, we could all use the support!  A lot of little kids have been coming in with this same sickness.  It seems to really hit them hard, and it sucks to see kids not feeling well.







Eating "On The Road"

Eating out of the house can be a bit nerve-wracking for some people. There are definite concerns about hygiene, water quality, food safety and cleanliness, and getting the infamous 'Togo Tummy'. The latter usually results in sudden dashes to the toilet for an extended sit on the porcelain throne, if you catch my drift. Not pleasant.

Just outside the hospital gate we have a little row of shopping stalls. You can buy corn meal and spices and fruits and veggies. You can buy fresh baked bread in big loaves or small. You can even charge your phone battery - for a small fee per hour. These are all services taken advantage of by the family members of those in the hospital. They will take the goods back to the hospital's cuisine area to prepare meals for themselves and their sick family member.



The view from behind the veggie stand out to the
road and the hospital wall across the road.

Secure phone charging stall

A local patron of the shopping area


Also available 'on the road' are meals prepared in little shacks which would be the rough equivalent to a restaurant. People warned us of the perils of eating in these establishments but we decided to try for ourselves. We went with our Canadian buddy, Dr. Kiong. He is a veteran of eating on the road and fears no food! He took us to his favourite place – Jesus Saves – to get our feet wet. We sat at a very short table on wobbly benches. The six of us filled the place, except for two little tables. One water jug was placed on the table with a communal plastic cup. We all ordered the same thing because it makes it easier for preparation and speed of service if the cook simply makes the same thing for everyone. So it was spaghetti all around! And a can of pop for each so we didn't have to share the water cup. We all received our meal with a fried egg on top, a nice touch of protein perched atop the pasta and sauce.


Translated:  Jesus Saves Restaurant-Cafe

Dr Kiong and Logan

Nice presentation, but watch those little green peppers!

Now truly, it is hard to screw up cooking spaghetti pasta and sauce – even for me. But Jesus Saves didn't disappoint. The sauce was good, the pasta fully cooked. But there was a surprise! Little green surprises. Very spicy little green surprises, tucked secretively into the dish! If you neglected to pick out these little surprises from your sauce your lips, tongue and taste buds would suddenly alert you of your oversight. Even Kiong was cautious of these guys... take note!  A couple of us like spicy things, but after sampling these fire bomb peppers we decided against eating too many more of them!

The meal cost each person less than $2.00 for the pasta and the drink. Very affordable, if not basic, fare. We were very attuned to any stomach and intestine rumblings for the rest of the day and the next but no one was plagued by Togo Tummy, thankfully. We'll be back to Jesus Saves, and explore other options on the road for special occasions! Eating on the road isn't so scary. We're supporting the local economy, mingling with the people we serve and experiencing the culture more fully.







Well, Well, Well...

We do know that these local shops and restaurants get their water from the hospital taps, so it's clean. The hospital filters and chlorinates its own well water (from two well sources) to ensure it is safe for the the hospital, the community and the compound residents to drink. We provide two filling stations for people to bring jugs, pails and large bowls to replenish their supply at home. We have one set of taps at the front of the hospital at the main entrance. Another single tap is located outside the compound at the hangar, so those living further away don't have to walk all the way around to the front of the property. This service is greatly appreciated and well used. There are always people filling up whenever we go past. (And sometimes they are washing their clothes and moto, too. Not quite the intended purpose, but... whatever.)

Two low taps for those filling up with a moto.
One high tap so they don't have to take the
container off their head and lift it back up when full.


This is the single tap beside the hangar

Walking home from the hangar with a full water bucket and a scoop
she uses, so she doesn't have to lift the bucket once filled.




Lizard Pants

Our boys have risen to Expert Level in lizard catching. All of them have caught more than 20 each – and the youngest of the three has become the mightiest most persistent and successful hunter. They just catch them, show them off and then let them go. But - it's serious business!



The other day Hudson spotted one while we were at the shop checking in with the guys. He climbed up on the elevated loading dock area and trapped a small lizard under his hands while on all fours. This is in full view of the guys working (and some others who should have been working but were just hanging around in) the carpenters' shop. While Hudson thought it was under his hands, the little reptile snuck out behind his hands and climbed up the leg of Hudson's shorts. This caught young Hudson by surprise, as it was a new experience! He jumped up, then jumped up and down repeatedly, trying to dislodge the lizard from the inside of his shorts!




I wish I had two videos. The first one of a squealing, shouting and laughing 7-year-old doing the chicken dance trying to get the lizard out of his pants by gyrations and sheer vocal volume – which he eventually did. The second video, of half a dozen Togolese guys doubled over in laughter at the sight playing out before them! The noise and commotion of the whole event was hilarious for Logan, Keenan and me. It was even funny for Hudson, too – who captured the offending lizard, by the way! The workers (and the stand-around-and-watchers) were chuckling about it for the next couple of days.

They won't forget our family for a while... I think we amuse them.






Coup-Coup Cuts

Machetes here are called coup-coups. I think it's derived from the French word “coupe” which means 'cut'. Truth is, they do cut very well, and very quickly. They're used to cut grasses, limbs and branches of trees, vines, help butcher animals, and if you aren't careful...  cut yourself.

People's exhibit number one for this is Logan. He had just finished sharpening his machete on a stone behind the shop, just like Togbe' and Agbessi have shown him. He was wiping the blade off when the cloth slipped and he nicked his index finger knuckle. I laughed at his response – he was both laughing and angry at himself.





We got him cleaned up and I know for a fact he'll be more careful while handling it from now on. Life can be a cruel teacher, giving the test before the lesson.

People's exhibit number two is Keenan. He won't dangle his machete lazily near his baby toe. It was just a wee scratch but it got his attention!






Book Club

My mother is going to fall out of her chair when she reads this.
There's no easy way to say it:
My name is Derek, and I'm in a Book Club.

Well, no, that's not really true. I'm actually LEADING a book club. Seriously. (Someone check in on my mother, please.)

The back story: I'm allergic to books. I don't get along well when left alone with them. I don't even like paper. Like oil and water.

So when Jason, our team leader here in Togo South, asked if I would take over his Thursday afternoon English-speaking book club with a few Togolese employees at the hospital while he heads home for a term, I was not the right guy for the job. I like to work. I like to be active. Plus, I'm not really a teacher / group leader type of person. “All you have to do is sit there and listen to them read, and correct their pronunciation when it's really bad”, Jason told me. If I wouldn't do it they'd have to drop the program until he returned in a year. (Guilt trip, anyone??) I reluctantly said I'd do it, as a favour to him and the attendees. So we have now had our first session together.

Well, I did correct some pronunciation, as well as tried to define some larger words into basic French so they could comprehend the text better. And then they suggested that I lead a discussion as we talked about the main points of the chapter. (Jason, this is getting more involved all the time, my friend!) Also, these guys are all medical professionals and / or pastors of local churches. I'm in maintenance here, definitely out of my element. And the book – it's J. Oswald Sanders' Spiritual Leadership. My question now... Who's going to get more out of our Thursday book club – the Togolese men, or me? This was definitely a set-up! God works in strange and mysterious ways.



The session was surprisingly good. Insightful conversation, good discussion, good questions. Maybe this won't be so painful after all?

Thanks, Jason.






From The Cutting Room Floor

Again, here are some random pictures that caught our attention over the past week and a bit.  Enjoy some of the more interesting, beautiful and bizarre things we get to see here.



We have been trying various methods of getting our chickens and guineas to lay eggs.  Everything from cuddling them...

to demonstrating for them the proper egg-laying posture...


 to threatening to grab them for the oven!



But we did get some eggs!



Hopefully this was not the cause of a very bad day for someone!

A tired old taxi van in it's resting place.

Beautiful colours on a pair of mating bugs

The boys love catching the intricately detailed
Indian grasshopper.

Fun little Christmas ornament pods on these trees

A day lily, I think.

A little praying mantis hanging out on a flower blossom.  Logan gets
gets credit for this picture.

I'm thinking of starting a waterfall ministry...

The view from the bottom end of the airstrip looking towards the hangar

We walked the length of the airstrip one day, just because we hadn't
done it before.  There are people living at the very end who have
worn a path to the water tap.

Hornbill!


A white-crested helmetshrike.  Google a better picture if you want
to see more.  Hard to get these birds to stay still.  I love the cow-licked
crest and yellow eye markings.

I've got nothing for this.  Must have been the heat getting to the lad!
One of the perks of shopping in Lome - getting ice cream at
the Festival Des Glaces

Motos, dozens of them crammed under the gas station canopy
waiting out the rains.
Caution:  Has sharp edges