Doing The Mango Tango

I know, I know - it's Mango (pronounced Mongo, even by Keenan).  However the title of this post worked, and Mango Tongo looked funny...

Brace yourself, there's lots of content to read through here.

Let's start with a pretty sunrise...

The first view of the Hospital Of Hope, from just past the
guard house at the entrance.

Heading North

We took off to the north of Togo late last week. The plan was to spend a few days exploring the area around Mango (pronounced Mongo – like a bongo drum; not mango – like the tree fruit). That's the location of the sister hospital to the one in Tsiko, called the Hospital Of Hope. It's been open for just over a year. After an eight hour drive up almost the length of the country we arrived safely.

The hospital itself is a very nice facility. It's new, clean and bright. The staff that we met are all friendly and polite. The equipment is new and modern. It's a different vibe up there, however. Not better, not worse, just noticeably different.

Also on the hospital grounds is the grave site of Todd DeKryger.  A very simple temporary marker and grave.  Many have heard the story of how he passed away.  It was good to see that his influence won't be forgotten since you pass the grave on the way into the compound and can see it from the hospital.  A new grave stone has arrived on the Kendall's container, and will make it's way north shortly.

From the compound wall between the residence area and
the hospital, looking toward the cuisine and entrance.

The area around Mango is a different culture, climate and topography.

It is a sub-Saharan region, meaning it's affected by the Sahara Desert. It is an expansive savanna, spotted with some big trees and lots of scrubby bush, but generally flat, rolling terrain. The Oti River meanders through the lowland. I loved the wide open grasslands, and the criss-crossing paths and trails leading out over the land. The views across the gently sloping valley spread all the way to Benin, 20 miles away.

I love the big sky and open land!

Five goats and a goose... all making noise!

The 'road' froom the Drake's house to the hospital.
Pick your own line- but don't go straight without flippers!

The climate is typically hotter and drier than where we are in the south. The lower humidity is nice! The heat can be oppressive at times. While we were there it was very pleasant, being the rainy season. Hot sunny days with a couple of nights of rains. In the dry season it's HOT and dry. Picture standing with your mouth open with a hair dryer blowing into your face – that's what a breeze feels like!

The culture is heavily influenced by the incredibly high concentration of Muslims in the area, as well as the various tribal groups that they are part of. Some say 80% or greater are Muslim.  There are several different languages heard in the market and in the fields surrounding the town. There are Muslim workers at the hospital, which creates its own kind of tension between conflicting faiths. The line between being culturally sensitive and bending to Muslim ideals is definitely a wide, blurry one. Pray for wisdom for them all.

Our Activities

We spent a couple of days with the Drake family. Adam and Faith are missionaries currently building a radio station in order to broadcast to several different language groups with a couple of other families. Since the hospital only reaches those who are 'not well', radio is an excellent platform to be far-reaching to anyone with a radio in northern Togo and the three neighbouring countries.

Cement blocks, all made by hand.

A fence is for security as well as delineating property boundaries
for the future. 

The Drakes were very gracious hosts, allowing us to interrupt their lives for a couple of days. With them guiding us we went to the hippo lake a few kilometres outside of Mango, visited the market in town, participated in the small house church they lead, played with their goats, donkey and chickens, crossed a section of the Oti River on a canoe ferry, and enjoyed meals together.

Fishing near the hippo lake

Continuing the waterfall ministry while up north.

At the Oti River, we made it across without any issue.  On the way back, we had to wait for two or three return trips to get a spot on the ferry.  Everyone was returning home from tending their fields and were looking to get a ride back across the river.  We were so heavily loaded crossing back over that I used the little bailer bucket the whole time.  Water was running in through a number of cracks in the vessel!

On the way to the other side, Adam and Logan

One of the heavy loads returning to the far bank

One of the workers waiting to get a ride across.

The line-up getting longer on the bank

Logan was dressed-up by the Drake girls...

This off-road go-kart provided just a little bit of fun.

After a couple of songs together, Adam would take the men...

... and Becky (another missionary up in Mango) would stay with
the women.

I also helped Adam install a shower unit in one of the bathrooms. This took longer than it should have, but if you had to follow these stellar instructions as we did you would have some sympathy for us. The Chinese did us no favours using a free online translation program!

It requred a lot of pondering, this
instruction sheet.

Read them for yourself.  Let me know what you think.

We enjoyed seeing some different birds up north. While I'm not a bird expert, the colours and variety of winged creatures is a bit different from what we have down south. Maybe it just appears to be so because of the lack of heavy forested area like we have around the hospital? We got to see more birds because they're not all hidden by the tree cover we have at home. It would have been a bonus to see the hippos at the lake, but sadly they were way far across the water - or just hiding really well. We managed to bring home a chameleon, named 'Drake', in homage to our hosts. (We've already played the game 'find the missing chameleon' in the house twice now. Apparently we have an escape artist on our hands!)

Drake the chameleon.  He won't be coming to Canada...

An Abbyssinian Roller perched outside our house

Some cattle from the Fulani people

A grumpy looking lizard

One of the Drake's goats, with a newborn we named "Penny".

A Village Weaver bird.  

Here are the nests of the weavers.  You can see one going into the hole
at the bottom of the nest in the picture.

Frog legs for dinner.

Some cute baby birds sitting on a little branch.

The Greyish Eagle Owl; seriously, that's its name.  Look it up.

We also spent some time on the grounds of the hospital, with Christine spending a couple of days there going through their inventory and checking equipment. She was able to spend time with a couple of the doctors and discuss areas where a Respiratory Therapist could be of assistance and how her skills are utilized here in the south hospital. They have a short term RT coming in December so there will likely be some communication happening with that person, prepping them on what to bring and what to expect.

We also were able to enjoy the pool there as the sun was hot. It's so nice to have that luxury in an area that can be difficult to live in. Our boys also managed to meet the Molsee boys and the youngest DeKryger – and quickly formed a little band of merry men... climbing trees, looking for lizards and generally doing 'boy stuff'. They disappeared for several hours one afternoon. However, their stomachs led them to the guest house dining room around supper time! It was cool to see them form quick friendships and laugh and run around together. We also got invited to dinner at the Molsee's home. Thanks to Ethan and Melissa for taking in some visitors! It was very nice to spend the evening with them.

The band of merry men

Drew showed our boys how to hang out
in Mango.

The 'best climbing tree in Togo' according
to one missionary

After our five days were up, we turned the wheels down the muddy roads of Mango (after another night-time rain) and headed south toward our home in Tsiko. With a couple of nature breaks, lunch at a nice spot in the mountains and a grocery shopping stop in one of the biggest cities in the country, Kara, we managed to get safely home.

This is almost half of the entire grocery store in Kara.

The view from where we stopped for lunch.

A neat rock formation at our lunch spot.  

It was great to get away, see the sister facility and experience the region. I love the openness of the land up there. It was ruggedly beautiful. We made some good contacts with folks there, and would definitely like to visit with them again. A special thanks to the Drakes and Molsees for having us in their homes. It was great to get to know you all better. Keep up the great work in Mango!

However, it was also nice to get back to our temporary home in the little village of Tsiko. While it's not our permanent home, we're comfortable here, we have a purpose here and it's nice to return to familiar surroundings. But – another visit up north wouldn't be out of the question! And it would be cool to hang out with the Westons in Mango!

Sunset over the savanna

From The Cutting Room Floor

Here are a bunch of pictures from the trip up to Mango.  Many pictures didn't make the cut, but some of these deserved to be included to convey a little of what it's like up there.  It's too bad they don't yet make scratch-and-sniff photos, because being able to take in the whole experience with all the senses is best.

French and Gan-Gam on the same page.

SCBC still has the best sign on the post!

This moto was loaded so heavily that the rider had to sit up
on the gas tank to drive it.

 

The small market in Mango was very similar to the one we have in Adeta.  We wandered through and bought some things for making dinner one afternoon.

Spices and seasonings

Grains and manioc

Beans and lentils

A few of the stalls of the market

More plastic containers than WalMart!

Look closely at the soccer shoes - cheap, one piece molded plastic
that fall apart or feel like you are playing in rubber boots.

Black market currency exchanger.  Little Nico is trying to get
a few francs from him.

Home Hardware's competition

When we were in the market many people waved or talked to us.  With 11 white people cruising through looking at all the stuff for sale (and wondering what it was and how you prepared it!) we created a bit of a scene.  

I had the local crazy guy come up and shake my hand, then he leaned in and touched cheeks with me.  First the left, then the right - and he repeated it two more times!  At first I thought he was going to kiss me!  I wasn't going to pucker up, but was pleasantly surprised it was just his affectionate greeting.  When he walked away I 'Purell-ed' my face!

Anyway, all that to say that this is the crazy guy...

Here is your warning:  Keep a safe distance!

Welding with bare hands, flip-flops and sunglasses...  Sounds
about right.

 There is one paved road in Mango.  That happens to also be Highway N1; the main road running north and south in the country.  Every other  road  goat trail, cart path or navigable portion of land is made of dirt or latterite gravel.  Most are smooth but filled with pools of water in the rainy season.

And since you have made it this far without bailing out on us, we leave you with a cute little kid from the market.  He was nice enough that we bought him.  Just kidding - had to make sure we didn't lose you totally.

And here we are, all happy and healthy at this point!